This is a continuation of the posts:
This is a continuation of the posts:
Now that we have the face frame, we need the rest of the buffet base to add it on to.
There are two sides and a back and bottom, plus two web frames.
Web frames are horizontal dividers that hold the drawers. You will regularly see web frames in an older style dresser or chest-of-drawers. Newer furniture often uses either a plywood divider or just side rails for the drawers to sit on. The frame is just that, it’s shaped like a frame, not solid and allows the drawers to sit on something. It also gives rigidity to the piece and allows for wood movement. I am going to put a web frame at the top to hold the top on and also one below the drawers. Each web frame is 5 pieces I have used 3/4″ thick pine. The front, rear and side rails are all 2″ wide, the middle rail is 3 1/2″ wide. Each end of the side and middle rails has a tongue that fits into a groove in the front and back rails. A few photos might help here.
These frames will fit into the sides, they won’t be nailed there. Nailing through the sides would not only look terrible, it would not give any strength to the piece. The web frames will fit into a groove (dado) cut into the sides to hold them in place.
Now on to with the sides, which I have made out of pine-veneered particle core. You could also use pine-veneered plywood, which I might use next time. The plywood is lighter, but also has the tendency to warp, and I couldn’t find a good supply of it locally.
As I said earlier, the sides are dadoed to let the frames sit into them. The dadoes are at the proper height to allow the face frame and web frame to line up so that the drawer can slide in and sit on it. The bottom of the face frame drawer opening must hit the top of the web frame (this is why you don’t make up all your parts first and why you need to be accurate to 1/32″).
So I will need a 3/4″ wide groove at the top and then another one approx. 7″ down from the top to fit the two web frames into.
Also I am putting in a bottom of pine PC, so I need a dado to hold that as well. My pine PC is 11/16″ thick, so that dado is equally 11/16″ to hold the bottom piece.
A groove is needed down the back edge for the ply back, which is 1/4″ thick. So this is what the right side piece will look like, don’t forget that the left side will be a mirror image and not the same. (Immediately to the right of this diagram is a side view image.)
For the inside of my buffet I used a few coats of shellac and put the coats on before I glued the pieces together. This makes things go together much easier, because it’s hard to get into corners when it’s all glued together. In woodworking you really do have to think a few steps ahead.
We can then glue up the base with the two sides, two web frames and bottom piece. I leave the back off for now so that I can put the shelf inside first. Unfortunately I didn’t take photos of this process, but I’ll try and create something basic using the Paint program that I’ve been using for these crude sketches. As I said earlier, I draw most of my creations by hand.
Note: this is not to scale, and poorly done, but I hope it gives some idea of what you will have this far.
An important note. My face frame clips over the sides, as I’ve explained earlier. So it doesn’t just butt up to the side edges, it goes over them. This means the web frames and bottom piece have to sit back 3/8″ from the side edges so that the web frames will butt up to them. I hope this isn’t too confusing. Here comes another sketch…
Ok, enough for today. Next we will work on the drawers and doors. Please feel free to ask questions, I will reply below the messages.
Continue on to: Part five – Drawers
This is a continuation of the posts:
Before I start, I should explain why there are two Buffet Hutches. In woodworking, a lot of time is spent in setting up tools to the precise measurements needed for each particular piece of wood needed. Table saw blades are set to height and their fences are set for the width of parts needed. Routers need to have different bits and those have to be set to height. When in a table, the router often needs a fence to work with it, and it too needs to be precisely set. There are other tools like this as well, and this all the setting up takes time. Each piece may need a different setup at the saw or on the router table. So… I try and make two or three of a project so that the setups can be used for more parts at the same time. This is similar to the advantages of assembly line work, although I am not making hundreds or thousands of things. So, I made the parts for two Buffet Hutches, one which I painted and the other I stained.
Once you have the basic sketch you need to break down into parts. I am starting with the base, the buffet part.
What I do is make a cutting list. This is a list of all the parts needed for a project. It includes the name of the part, the quantity, the type of wood and the width, length and thickness of the wood. It also describes what machining needs to be done to the part.
Starting with the buffet, with the drawers and doors not included there are 15 different parts. To further break it down, there are two sides, a bottom, a shelf, a base molding, two interior web frames (that the drawers sit between), and a face frame (the area that the drawers and doors sit in).
I plane up my parts to correct thickness but not to precise widths and lengths at the start, depending on the piece in question. All the face frame and door parts that are 2″ wide will be made and cut to width at once, but not to their lengths. I always make more than I need because often you will either make a mistake (that rarely happens to me!) or you find a knot or split or defect in the wood.
The top and middle horizontal pieces need tenons on both of their ends, as do the two lower middle vertical pieces. When figuring out the lengths of these pieces you need to remember to add the length of the tenons on each end. I make the tenons on the table saw using a dado blade but first I make the mortises that they will go into using the router and the appropriate bit. For these mortises I used a 3/8″ router bit. The tenon then can be made precisely to size to fit the mortise hole. It is not difficult to shave a bit off the tenon if it is too thick, it’s much harder to make the mortise wider. (The bottom center tenon will fit into the bottom of the buffet, so that mortise will be make later). I also get an oval hole with the router bit so I just shave off the corners of the tenon with a sharp chisel.
In college we made our face frames to fit over the sides of the carcase (base piece). A dado is run down the back of the face frame vertical pieces in a way that they fit precisely over the width of the sides. This makes an easier way to glue and fit your pieces but it is extra work and your measurements must be exact or else the piece won’t fit on. Also, you must take this into account when figuring out your measurements, because the side pieces of the carcase will extend into the face frame. Being good at, and enjoy mathematics certainly helps the whole process. I love math!
I really don’t think I took many photos of the build, I’ll have to go and search my files for some before the next post.
Stick with me please…
Continue on to: Part four – The buffet sides and web frames
Just in case anyone prefers the stained look as opposed to the painted look, here’s the hutch done in stained (American Colonial by Flecto Varathane)l pine (please forgive me for the background, it’s in my shop and the walls aren’t finished yet)
So, to make the design, I got out a ruler to measure the original photo, in order to get the correct dimensions for the buffet doors and drawers, and the height of the whole piece. I prefer using a pencil and paper, and not the computer. First I decided on 2″ wide stiles and rails for the whole frame of the buffet, around the drawers and doors, as well as the door frame parts.
From there, I measured the photo to see the how wide the frame pieces were there. The door frames in the photo measure out to 1/4″, that means every 1/4″ in the photo is 2″ in actual (real) size. So my scale is 1/4″ = 2″, which means 1/8″ = 1″. From there on I measured all the parts on the photo (the doors, drawers, whole height, width, etc.) to get the sizes of the other parts.
I didn’t have a side view photo, so I just went with sizes that seemed to match with the front. The sides are basically plain, so I just needed to get a depth of the buffet that would be appropriate.
Here’s the lecturing part:
There is a way to make things, and a way to make things that will last. This piece is designed to last with important facts taken into account.
Did I mention that wood moves?
Butt joints are okay for making small crafts, frames, and for places where there is no stress on a piece, or it is just there for decoration. Some people use dowels to reinforce the joint, many now use pocket screws. People use these methods either because they don’t know the proper ways or because it’s quick and easy. It just doesn’t make good furniture.
The tenon comes from the horizontal piece and fits into a matching mortise (hole) in the vertical piece. It is glued in place and will last a long, long time.
Okay back to the design…
The buffet part will have two drawers, two doors and an interior shelf. It will be solid pine except for the sides and bottom which are pine veneered particle board (I need something stable for the buffet and this type of board does not move with the seasons) and the back which is pine veneered plywood.
The top hutch part will have two fixed shelves, shiplapped back boards and a top with cove molding.
I have decided to show the finished project and then will make some blogs to explain the making of it. i didn’t think it would take so much blogging but after writing all the above I realize this is going to take a few posts.
Here’s the finished buffet hutch that I made:
I really hope that most of you will stick with me to see the steps of how I designed, made and painted this.
Continue on to: Part two – Same style difference finish
I decided to make my husband an Adirondack Chair for Christmas. I had a purchased plan, plus 3 or 4 others from magazines and the internet. From my online research, many people said the “typical” Adirondack chair, or Muskoka chair, as it’s known as around here, was hard to get out of. They do sit quite low to the ground with a steep back slant to the seat. Since I wanted my husband to be able to get back out of the chair (for obvious reasons), I decided on the “improved design” Norm Abram Adirondack Chair in Popular Woodworking Magazine, and also at their website.
The article, with parts list and step-by step directions used to be available free online, but it is now available as a download: Popular Woodworking: Norm Abrams Adirondack Chair
I used rough pine for the chair, which meant I needed to pick out pieces without loose knots, and with areas that looked clear as possible for the parts I had to make, and then joint and plane them to size. The thickness of all the parts is 3/4″, the legs, front crosspiece and seat slats are rectangular, with no need to make fancy cuts on. The tops of the back slats, the arms, arm brackets, side members and rear crosspieces need to be cut to shape. I used my jigsaw but a bandsaw would be easier (I don’t have one yet).
These boxes are very sturdy and I’m sure will come in handy. I should have made myself some!